Saigon Chill
72 hours in the capital: tips for the anti-optimization traveler
01.
Gather some patience for your experience at Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN). Normally, clearing customs here is probably an okay experience, but thanks to COVID, the situation is currently a little harrowing. Be prepared to download an app, fill in a paper form (carry a pen) and so on. And, don’t fret – there are a bunch of people to help and this is by far the most disorganized experience you are likely to have on your holiday in HCMC (Ho Chi Minh is Saigon’s contemporary name).
02.
Download Grab ASAP: a highly efficient cab service, you’ll take dozens of these while you’re in Vietnam.
03.
Change money at the airport, but not too much. There are several reasons for this – including the usual exchange rate wisdom – but the main one is that money in HCMC goes a long, long way. My first hundred dollars that made me a bazillionaire in Dong lasted and lasted.
04.
If you’re not on a tight budget, stay in District 1. I recommend the Park Hyatt Saigon which feels quite a bit like a Delhi five star hotel constructed in the 1980s: it's familiar, it's sweet, and it's got a nice pool. However, should you be backpacking, Lily’s hostel in the backpackers district is amongst the cleaner, super cheap places to stay.
05.
Drink as much Vietnamese Coffee as you can. Its. so. damn. good. Even the roadside version is yummy, and many locals told me they have 2-3 cups a day. To enjoy a nice setting, head to Phin Xanh Vietnamese Coffee and Tea cafe, but honestly, there are dozens of places to choose from.
(Hat tip: our HCMC local buys her beans at Mori&The Workshop Coffee. She also recommends Rang Rang Coffee if you need a good coffee shop to work in)
06.
Head to Chinatown in District 5. It’s chaotic and super fun, and Binh Tay Market there is great if you need to pick up gifts for people without thinking too much. If you’re a fruitarian, you’ll find plenty to ogle at too.
07.
Book yourself an AirBnB food tour, or two. Even if you’re super adventurous, it's hard to compete with the too-cool-for-school college kids who pick you up on bikes (or in cabs if you want) and take you down the most incredible food alleys in the city. It was on this tour that I discovered a seafood pancake at a roadside family stall that is one of the yummiest things I’ve eaten in all my existence. Here’s the address for you to put straight into Grab:
335/2 Dien Bien Phu Phuong 4 quan 3. While there, take note of how the locals eat their pancakes: stuffed with the garden basket of raw veggies that are on your table when you sit down, and dipped into various sauces.
Closed Mondays.
08.
Do the District 1 tours, even if you feel like it's touristy. This includes the
Reunification Palace, Saigon Central Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral, and Saigon Opera House. It seems like a lot, but they are all within walking distance of one another. The post office is the coolest.
09.
Pho Yourself Out. But don't go crazy looking for the best pho spot in town. Each time I had pho, I thought it was the best pho. So, just settle down at places you feel like are comfortable and go for it. But if you really need a rec, I like Pho Qunh in the backpacker district and I LOVED the vegan pho at Vegan Pho Nu, which is a spot many Vietnamese Buddhists eat at on a full moon, when meat is a no-no.
10.
Do not skip the War Museum, under any circumstance. It's chilling, educational, and tells you a lot about the recent history of the country.
11.
Check out the 24 hour flower markets. You’re literally walking in blooms for miles and miles. Ho Thi Ky Flower Market is up there when it comes to GOAT sensational experiences.
12.
Grab cocktails and snacks at Anan: one of HCMC’s fancy bars. You have to make a reservation but it's worth it. Warning: the bartender is kinda Brittney obsessed. So get ready to have her sing ‘Toxic’ right into your perfect negroni.
13.
Embrace the Banh Mi Life. These are the spots where you’ll get the freshest, and therefore, best-est.
Banh mi 362 (numbero uno for grab and go)
Banh mi hoa ma for full sets
Banh mi 37 (for the best pâté ever)
14.
Get a Vietnamese Massage At Least Once (I got one everyday). Similar to a Thai massage, but better. The one at Temple Spa in District 1 delivers orgasmic services, and leaves your body light, lovely and refreshed. Tip: ask for a fresh cucumber mask with any massage – it's on the house.
*This piece was enriched with inputs from Shyma Shetty, a Saigon insider. @shy_machete